How often should I replace door weatherstripping?

In Utah's climate, compression weatherstripping typically lasts 3 to 5 years before it loses its seal. Fin seal and V-strip styles may last longer but provide less insulation. Inspect your weatherstripping every spring by closing the door on a piece of paper. If the paper pulls out easily, the weatherstripping needs replacement.

What is the best way to clean a fiberglass front door?

Use warm water with a mild dish soap and a soft cloth or sponge. Avoid abrasive cleaners, steel wool, or pressure washers, all of which can damage the gel-coat surface. For stubborn stains, a non-abrasive bathroom cleaner works well. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a clean cloth.

How do I stop my front door from sticking?

Sticking is usually caused by hinge sag, paint buildup, or seasonal wood expansion (on wood doors). For hinge sag, tighten the hinge screws. If the screw holes are stripped, remove the screws, fill the holes with wooden toothpicks dipped in wood glue, let dry, then reinstall the screws. For paint buildup, sand the sticking edge lightly and repaint.

Can I replace weatherstripping myself?

Yes. Door weatherstripping replacement is a straightforward DIY project. Compression weatherstripping with an adhesive backing installs in 30 to 45 minutes. Kerf-in (slot-in) weatherstripping requires removing the old strip from the kerf groove and pressing the new one in. Either type costs $15 to $40 for a complete door kit.

How do I know if my door needs replacing instead of repairing?

Replace rather than repair if: the door is visibly warped and no longer sits flat in the frame, rust has penetrated through the steel skin (not just surface rust), the frame itself is rotted or structurally compromised, or the door is single-pane or uninsulated. For borderline cases, get a professional assessment.

Front Door Maintenance Guide | Care Tips

Why Door Maintenance Matters More Than You Think

Your front door opens and closes over 1,500 times per year while enduring direct weather exposure. In Utah, that means sub-zero winter wind chills, triple-digit summer heat, and freeze-thaw cycles that stress every joint and seal.

The good news: effective door maintenance takes about 30 minutes twice a year. Whether you have a steel, fiberglass, or wood entry door, these steps apply.

Spring Inspection Checklist

Spring is the most important time for door maintenance in Utah. Your door just survived months of snow, ice, road salt, and cold-weather stress. Here is what to check after winter.

Visual Inspection

Start with the door closed. Look at the door from the outside.

Check the finish. Look for chips, scratches, cracks, peeling paint, or discoloration. Mark any areas that need attention with painter's tape so you can address them later.
Check the bottom edge. The bottom 2 inches of any door take the most abuse from splashing water, snowmelt, and salt. On steel doors, look for bubbling paint or rust spots. On fiberglass, look for cracks or discoloration. On wood, look for soft spots or peeling stain.
Check the threshold. The threshold (the metal or composite strip at the bottom of the door opening) should sit flush against the door bottom or door sweep. If you can see daylight under the door, the threshold needs adjustment.

The Paper Test for Weatherstripping

Close the door and slide a piece of standard printer paper between the door and the frame at multiple points: top, both sides, and bottom. If the paper slides out freely at any point, the weatherstripping is no longer sealing at that location.

Test at four points: top center, left side at handle height, right side at hinge height, and the bottom. Also open and close the door several times and try the deadbolt. If anything sticks, squeaks, or requires force, note it for repair.

Weatherstripping: The Most Important Maintenance Item

Weatherstripping replacement is the single highest-return maintenance task you can perform on any exterior door. Worn weatherstripping on a front door can waste as much energy as having a four-inch hole in your wall. Replacing it costs $15 to $40 in materials and takes 30 to 45 minutes.

How to Replace Weatherstripping

The most effective type for exterior doors is compression weatherstripping (foam, rubber, or silicone strips). Kerf-in weatherstripping fits into a factory groove in the frame and is the type installed on most steel and fiberglass doors. Either works well in Utah's dry climate.

Open the door and remove the old weatherstripping. For adhesive-backed types, peel off and scrape any residue with a putty knife. For kerf-in types, pull the old strip from the groove.
Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol to remove oils and dust.
Measure and cut the new weatherstripping to length. Cut at 45-degree angles at the corners for a tight fit.
Install the new strip. For adhesive-backed, press firmly into place starting at one end and working to the other. For kerf-in, press the fin into the groove.
Close the door and check compression. The weatherstripping should compress slightly and create a visible seal around the entire perimeter. Run the paper test again to verify.

Door Sweep

The bottom seal wears fastest because it drags across the threshold with every cycle. Check it every spring. If it is torn or compressed flat, replace it. A new door sweep costs $8 to $20 and installs with four to six screws.

Finish Care by Material

Steel Door Finish Maintenance

Steel doors demand the most finish attention because any break in the paint exposes metal to moisture and eventually rust.

Immediate chip repair. Sand lightly with 220-grit, apply rust-inhibiting primer, and touch up with matching exterior paint. Address chips within a week to prevent rust.

Full repaint. Every 5 to 8 years, sand the entire surface, prime bare spots, and apply two coats of exterior acrylic latex. Budget $30 to $60.

Rust remediation. For active rust, sand to bare metal, treat with a rust converter, prime, and repaint. If rust has penetrated the steel skin, the door needs replacement.

Fiberglass Door Finish Maintenance

Fiberglass is dramatically easier to maintain.

Cleaning. Wash with mild soap and warm water twice a year. A soft sponge or microfiber cloth is all you need. Avoid abrasive cleaners and pressure washers.

Stained finishes. If your fiberglass door has a gel-stain wood-grain finish, inspect the stain annually. UV exposure gradually fades the color, especially on south-facing doors. Reapply gel stain every 5 to 10 years. Lightly sand the surface with 320-grit sandpaper before restaining for best adhesion.

Painted finishes. Fiberglass holds paint well. Repaint every 7 to 10 years or when fading becomes noticeable. No primer is needed if the existing paint is in good condition; simply clean, scuff lightly, and apply fresh paint.

Wood Door Finish Maintenance

Wood doors require the most ongoing care, which is one reason many Utah homeowners eventually switch to steel or fiberglass.

Annual refinishing is recommended for stained wood doors exposed to weather. Sand lightly and apply a fresh coat of marine-grade exterior spar urethane. Painted wood doors need repainting every 3 to 5 years.

Check for swelling. If a wood door sticks in spring but operates fine in summer, it is absorbing moisture. Seal all six sides (including top, bottom, and hinge edges) with polyurethane.

Hardware Maintenance

Door hardware is mechanical and benefits from annual attention.

Hinges

Tighten screws. If a screw spins freely (stripped hole), fill the hole with a wooden toothpick dipped in wood glue, let dry, and reinstall.
Lubricate. Apply silicone lubricant or white lithium grease to each hinge pin. Work it in by opening and closing the door several times.
Check for sag. If the gap between door and frame is wider at the top latch side, replace the top hinge screws with 3-inch screws that reach the wall framing.

Deadbolt and Lock

Lubricate the mechanism annually with graphite powder or dry Teflon lubricant. Avoid WD-40, which attracts dust.
Check strike plate alignment. If the deadbolt requires force, loosen the strike plate screws, reposition, and retighten.
Test smart locks. Check battery level and connectivity annually. Replace batteries proactively. See our security door guide for details.

Threshold and Sill Maintenance

The threshold is the unsung hero of your door's energy performance. A properly adjusted threshold blocks drafts, water infiltration, and insects.

Adjusting an Adjustable Threshold

Most modern thresholds have adjustment screws that raise or lower the threshold surface. Look for Phillips-head screws along the length of the threshold, typically covered by small caps.

Close the door and check for daylight gaps underneath.
Turn the adjustment screws clockwise to raise the threshold surface until it contacts the door bottom or sweep evenly.
Do not over-tighten. The door should close without excessive force but make consistent contact across the full width.
Run the paper test along the bottom to verify the seal.

Threshold Replacement

If the threshold is cracked, corroded, or beyond adjustment, replace it. Threshold replacement kits cost $25 to $60 and install in about an hour. Remove the old threshold, clean the area, apply a bead of exterior caulk, and install the new one. If you notice water pooling at the threshold during rainstorms, the sill pan beneath may need recaulking, which is a sign to call a professional.

Seasonal Tips for Utah's Climate

Fall (October): Replace weatherstripping if needed, apply fresh exterior caulk around the frame, and lubricate all hardware before cold weather arrives.

Winter (December-March): Clear snow from the threshold after storms. Use sand or calcium chloride near the door instead of rock salt, which corrodes metal.

Spring (April): Run the full inspection checklist above. Address winter damage immediately.

Summer (July): Check paint and stain on sun-exposed doors. Verify your storm door screen is operating smoothly.

When to Repair vs Replace

Some door problems are worth fixing. Others signal that it is time for a new door.

Repair If:

Weatherstripping is worn but the door itself is sound
The finish has minor chips or surface rust (steel) that have not penetrated the skin
Hinges are loose but the screw holes can be reinforced
The threshold is misaligned but not cracked
The door sticks due to minor hinge sag

Replace If:

The door panel is visibly warped and daylight is visible around the edges when closed
Rust has penetrated through the steel skin
The frame is rotted, cracked, or pulling away from the wall
The door is uninsulated (hollow core or single-pane glass)
The door no longer accepts a deadbolt properly due to structural shift
You want to upgrade to a more energy-efficient or secure option

If replacement is the better path, our steel vs fiberglass comparison will help you choose the right material for your Utah home and budget. And if your windows need attention too, the signs you need new windows checklist is the logical companion to this door maintenance guide.

Regular maintenance is the simplest, cheapest way to get the most out of your front door. Thirty minutes in spring and thirty minutes in fall keeps your entry sealed, secure, and sharp-looking through every Utah season.

Contents

Front Door Maintenance: How to Keep Your Entry Door Looking and Working Great

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