10 Warning Signs You Need New Windows (And What to Do About Each)

Every home tells you when something is wrong. You just have to know what to look for. Windows are one of the most critical components of your home's building envelope, yet they are also one of the most neglected. Most homeowners in Utah do not think about their windows until a January cold snap sends an icy draft across the living room floor, or a summer monsoon reveals water pooling on the sill.

The truth is that window failure rarely happens all at once. It is a slow, gradual process that shows itself in subtle ways long before a pane cracks or a frame collapses. By the time you notice one problem, there are usually several others quietly driving up your energy bills and making your home less comfortable.

This guide covers the ten most reliable warning signs that your windows are due for replacement. For each sign, we will explain what is actually happening, why it matters, and whether repair or full replacement is the right call. If you are a Utah homeowner dealing with any of these issues, you are in the right place.

Sign 1: Drafts Near Closed Windows

This is the complaint we hear most often, especially from homeowners in the Salt Lake Valley and Utah County whose homes were built in the 1990s and early 2000s. You are sitting on the couch on a December evening, the thermostat reads 70 degrees, and yet you feel a distinct chill radiating from the window.

What Is Actually Happening

Drafts around closed windows come from three sources:

• Failed weatherstripping. The rubber or foam seals that line the sash and frame compress and crack over time, especially in Utah's dry climate. After 10-15 years, they lose their ability to create an airtight seal.
• Gaps between the frame and the wall. As your home settles, the rough opening around the window shifts slightly. The caulk and expanding foam that originally sealed the gap can shrink, crack, or pull away.
• Warped or shifted sashes. Wood frames absorb and release moisture with the seasons. Over many heating and cooling cycles, they can warp enough that the sash no longer seats flush against the frame.

Why It Matters

Even small air leaks add up fast. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that air leaks through windows and doors account for 25-30% of residential heating and cooling energy use. In Utah, where winter temperatures regularly drop below 20 degrees Fahrenheit in the Wasatch Front corridor, those leaks force your furnace to run significantly more than it should.

What to Do

If the draft is limited to one or two windows and the frames are in good condition, finding and sealing the air leak with new weatherstripping or caulk may buy you a few more years. But if you feel drafts at multiple windows throughout your home, or if the frames themselves are warped, replacement is the more durable and cost-effective solution. You will recoup the investment through lower energy bills faster than you might expect.

Sign 2: Condensation Between Window Panes

If you see a hazy, foggy film trapped between the two layers of glass in your windows, that is not something you can wipe away. It is a sign that the insulated glass unit (IGU) seal has failed.

What Is Actually Happening

Modern double-pane and triple-pane windows are factory-sealed with a spacer bar and sealant around the perimeter. The space between the panes is filled with argon or krypton gas, which insulates far better than air. When that perimeter seal breaks down, the inert gas escapes, moist outdoor air infiltrates the gap, and moisture condenses on the interior glass surfaces where you cannot reach it.

Seal failure is one of the most common window problems in Utah. Our extreme temperature range, from single digits in January to triple digits in July, causes the glass and frame to expand and contract constantly. Over years, this thermal cycling weakens the sealant.

Why It Matters

Once the seal fails, your window has lost a significant portion of its insulating ability. The argon gas that made your window energy-efficient is gone. You are essentially left with two panes of glass separated by regular air, which transfers heat roughly 30% more readily than argon-filled units.

Beyond energy loss, trapped moisture can leave permanent mineral deposits on the glass, staining it even if you eventually replace the seal.

What to Do

Some companies offer "defogging" services that drill a small hole in the glass, clean out the moisture, and reseal. This can work as a short-term fix, but it does not restore the argon gas fill, so you never regain the original insulating value. If you are seeing seal failure in multiple windows, full IGU or window replacement is the smarter investment. Learn more about moisture-related window problems in our condensation and mold guide.

Sign 3: Rising Energy Bills

You have not changed your thermostat habits. You have not added any new appliances. But your heating bills keep creeping upward every winter. If that sounds familiar, your windows may be the silent culprit.

What Is Actually Happening

Window insulating performance degrades over time. Seals fail (see Sign 2), weatherstripping wears out (see Sign 1), and the glass coatings that reflect heat can degrade with UV exposure. All of these factors reduce the thermal barrier between your conditioned indoor air and the outdoor elements.

In Utah, the biggest impact hits during the heating season. Rocky Mountain Power and Dominion Energy rate increases compound the problem, but if your bills are rising faster than the rate increases, your home's envelope is likely to blame, and windows are usually the weakest link.

The Numbers

According to Energy Star, windows can account for 25-30% of a home's heating and cooling energy use. For an average Utah home spending $150-200 per month on winter heating, that means $37-60 per month is going straight through the windows. Upgrading from old double-pane units with failed seals to modern Low-E, argon-filled windows can cut that window-related loss by 30-50%.

That translates to real savings of $15-30 per month, or $180-360 per year for a typical Salt Lake area home with 10-15 windows.

What to Do

Start by identifying which windows are the worst offenders. Our window air leak detection guide walks you through the three easiest methods. If most of your windows are contributing to the problem, a whole-home replacement makes financial sense. Check our complete cost guide for Utah window replacement to see what a project like that actually costs.

Sign 4: Windows That Are Hard to Open or Close

Windows should open smoothly with one hand. If you are wrestling with a window, putting your shoulder into it, or asking a partner to help hold it while you lock it, something has gone wrong mechanically.

What Is Actually Happening

Several things can make a window difficult to operate:

• Paint buildup. If your home has been repainted multiple times, dried paint in the tracks or along the sash edges can effectively glue the window shut. This is particularly common in older Utah homes with wood-framed windows.
• Warped frames. Wood absorbs moisture and expands, then dries out and contracts. After decades of Utah's seasonal humidity swings, frames can warp permanently.
• Failed balances. Double-hung windows use balance mechanisms (springs or spiral rods) to counterweight the sash so it stays put when you raise it. When these fail, the window slams shut or will not stay open.
• Foundation settling. Over time, your home's foundation shifts slightly. This can rack the window frames out of square, binding the sashes.

Why It Matters

Beyond daily frustration, a window that does not operate correctly is a safety hazard. In an emergency, every bedroom window must open quickly and fully for egress. A jammed window could trap someone in a fire.

There is also a comfort and maintenance angle. If you cannot open windows for natural ventilation during Utah's pleasant spring and fall months, you end up running the AC more than necessary.

What to Do

For a deeper dive into each of these causes and when each one warrants replacement versus repair, see our detailed guide on hard-to-open windows. The short version: if the cause is cosmetic (paint, dirty tracks), cleaning and maintenance can fix it. If the cause is structural (warped frame, racked opening), replacement is the reliable long-term answer.

Sign 5: Visible Frame Damage

This one is hard to miss once you start looking, but many homeowners overlook it because window frames sit at the periphery of your vision. Take five minutes to inspect each window in your home. Look at the sill, the frame, and the exterior casing.

What to Look For

• Rot. Soft, spongy, or discolored wood on sills and lower frame sections. Poke suspect areas with a screwdriver. If it sinks in easily, the wood is rotting. Utah's winter snow accumulation on sills is a primary driver of wood rot.
• Warping. Frames that bow inward or outward. Gaps between the frame and the wall. Sashes that no longer sit flush.
• Cracking or splitting. Dry cracks along the grain of wood frames, or stress cracks in vinyl frames. Vinyl cracking is common at high altitude where UV exposure is more intense.
• Peeling paint or stain. Not a structural issue on its own, but peeling coatings expose the underlying material to moisture, accelerating deterioration.

Why It Matters

Frame damage compromises every function of the window. A rotting frame cannot hold the glass securely. A warped frame cannot seal against air and water. Cracks in the frame are direct pathways for moisture, insects, and outside air.

Water intrusion through damaged frames is one of the leading causes of hidden wall damage and mold growth in Utah homes. The damage you can see on the frame is often just the tip of the iceberg; the real concern is what is happening inside the wall cavity behind it.

What to Do

Minor surface damage can sometimes be addressed with epoxy filler, wood hardener, and fresh paint. But if the rot extends deeper than a quarter inch, or if the frame is warped enough to compromise the seal, replacement is the right call. Our guide on rotten window frames covers how to assess severity and choose between repair and replacement.

Sign 6: Excessive Outside Noise

You can hear the neighbor's dog, traffic on the street, or the landscaper's leaf blower as if there were no barrier at all. While no window blocks all sound, a noticeable increase in noise transmission usually means your windows are no longer performing.

What Is Actually Happening

Sound travels through windows via two paths:

• Through the glass itself. Single-pane glass transmits sound readily. Even double-pane windows with failed seals lose their sound-dampening ability because the gas fill that absorbs sound vibration is gone.
• Through gaps and cracks. Air leaks are also sound leaks. Every gap in your weatherstripping or frame is a direct channel for noise.

The Sound Transmission Class (STC) rating measures how well a window blocks sound. A standard single-pane window rates around STC 26. A quality dual-pane window with intact seals rates STC 28-32. High-performance windows with laminated glass can reach STC 34-40 or higher.

Why It Matters for Utah Homes

Noise is a bigger issue than many Utah homeowners realize. Homes along the Wasatch Front are increasingly close to busy roads (I-15, I-215, Bangerter Highway). New construction in areas like Lehi, Herriman, and Eagle Mountain means more neighbors and more ambient noise. If you work from home, noise control is not just a comfort issue; it affects your productivity.

What to Do

If noise is your primary complaint and your windows are otherwise functional, you might consider adding storm windows as an intermediate step. But if noise is accompanied by any of the other signs on this list, replacement with modern dual-pane or triple-pane windows with laminated glass will address sound, energy efficiency, and comfort all at once.

Sign 7: Your Windows Are 20+ Years Old

Age alone does not always mean replacement is necessary. Well-maintained wood windows can last 30 or even 40 years. But age combined with any other sign on this list is a strong indicator.

What Happens as Windows Age

• Seals degrade. The average lifespan of an IGU seal is 15-20 years. By year 20, many units have lost their argon gas fill.
• Hardware wears out. Locks, cranks, tilt latches, and balance mechanisms have moving parts that wear with use.
• Technology advances. A window manufactured in 2005 lacks coatings and gas fills that are now standard. Low-E coatings, argon or krypton gas fills, warm-edge spacers, and improved frame thermal breaks all dramatically outperform what was available even 15 years ago.
• Code standards evolve. Utah adopted the 2021 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC), which requires a maximum U-factor of 0.30 for windows. Most windows installed before 2010 do not meet this standard.

The Utah Context

A huge number of homes in the Salt Lake Valley, Utah County, and Davis County were built during the construction booms of the 1990s and early 2000s. Those homes are now 20-30 years old, which puts their original windows right at the end of their expected service life. If your home was built between 1990 and 2005, it is statistically likely that your windows are underperforming.

What to Do

If your windows are 20+ years old and you are experiencing even one other sign on this list, schedule a professional evaluation. Many Utah window companies offer free inspections. In the meantime, check whether your windows are single-pane using our quick identification guide; if they are, replacement should move to the top of your home improvement list.

Sign 8: Single-Pane Glass

Single-pane windows are the least energy-efficient type of residential window still in use. They provide almost no insulation, transmit heat freely in both directions, and offer minimal noise reduction.

How to Identify Single-Pane Windows

Not sure what you have? It is easier to check than you might think:

• The lighter test. Hold a lighter or pen near the glass. With single-pane, you will see one reflection. With double-pane, you will see two distinct reflections offset from each other.
• The edge check. Look at the window from an angle at the edge of the glass. Single-pane glass has a simple edge. Double-pane glass shows a visible spacer bar between two layers.
• The age check. If your home was built before 1980 and the windows have never been replaced, they are almost certainly single-pane. Some homes built in the 1980s also received single-pane windows, particularly in budget construction.

For a complete walkthrough with photos, see our single-pane window identification guide.

Why It Matters in Utah

Utah's climate is one of the most demanding in the country for windows. Winter temperatures along the Wasatch Front regularly drop into the teens and single digits. Summer temperatures exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Single-pane glass has a U-factor of approximately 1.0, meaning it transfers heat readily. Compare that to a modern Low-E double-pane window with a U-factor of 0.25-0.30. The modern window is roughly 3-4 times more insulating.

According to Energy Star, replacing single-pane windows with certified units saves an average of $101-$583 per year nationally. In Utah's climate, savings tend toward the higher end of that range.

What to Do

There is no repair that makes a single-pane window perform like a double-pane. Storm windows can help as a stopgap, but full replacement is the only way to bring single-pane openings up to modern performance standards. If budget is a concern, prioritize windows on the north and west sides of your home, where heat loss (winter) and heat gain (summer) are greatest.

Sign 9: Interior Condensation and Moisture

This is different from Sign 2 (condensation between panes). Interior condensation forms on the room-side surface of the glass. You see it as water droplets, streaks, or frost on the inside of your windows, particularly on cold winter mornings.

What Is Actually Happening

When warm, humid indoor air meets a cold glass surface, the moisture in the air condenses into liquid water. This happens when the glass surface temperature drops below the dew point of the indoor air.

Some interior condensation on the coldest mornings is normal, especially in newly built homes with tight building envelopes that trap moisture. But if you are seeing heavy condensation, persistent moisture, or ice forming on the inside of your windows, it means the glass is getting too cold, which indicates poor insulation.

Why It Matters

The water itself causes real damage. Moisture pooling on sills promotes wood rot, mold growth, and paint failure. In severe cases, water can run down the wall below the window and damage drywall, baseboards, and flooring.

Mold is the more urgent concern. The CDC and EPA both identify window condensation as a common contributor to indoor mold growth. Black mold around window sills is a frequent discovery in older Utah homes during the winter months. If you are seeing this, read our window condensation and mold guide for immediate steps.

What to Do

Short-term, manage indoor humidity. Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens. Run a dehumidifier if your indoor relative humidity exceeds 40-45% in winter. But these are band-aids. If the condensation is chronic and widespread, the underlying issue is that your glass is not insulated enough for Utah winters. Replacement with Low-E glass that maintains a warmer interior surface temperature is the permanent solution.

Sign 10: Fading Furniture and Flooring

Have you noticed that the hardwood floor near your south-facing windows is lighter than the rest of the room? Or that the arm of your couch that faces the window has lost its color? UV radiation passing through old glass is the cause.

What Is Actually Happening

Standard clear glass, including older double-pane windows without Low-E coatings, transmits 70-80% of the sun's ultraviolet radiation. UV-A and UV-B rays break down the chemical bonds in dyes, pigments, and finishes, causing irreversible color loss.

This is not just a summer problem. UV radiation is present year-round and is actually intensified at Utah's elevation. Salt Lake City sits at approximately 4,200 feet, and cities like Park City and Heber are above 6,000 feet. At these elevations, UV intensity is 15-25% higher than at sea level.

What Fades

• Hardwood and laminate flooring
• Carpet dyes
• Furniture upholstery and leather
• Artwork and photographs
• Curtains and drapes (ironically, the covering you use to protect other items)

Why It Matters

Replacing faded flooring or furniture is expensive. A single hardwood floor refinishing project in Utah runs $3-5 per square foot. Replacing a faded couch costs $1,000-3,000. When you add up the cost of UV damage over a decade, it can exceed the cost of new windows.

What to Do

Modern Low-E glass blocks 95-99% of UV radiation while still allowing visible light through. If UV damage is your primary concern, replacement is the only reliable solution. Window films can block some UV, but they may void your window warranty, they can cause seal failure in double-pane units by trapping heat, and they reduce visible light transmission.

Your Window Diagnostic Checklist

Now that you know what to look for, work through this checklist window by window. Check every item that applies to your home. If you check three or more items across different categories, replacement is likely the most cost-effective path forward.

How to Interpret Your Results

The checklist above groups issues into four categories for a reason. Here is how to read your results:

One to Two Items Checked

You are in the maintenance zone. Targeted repairs like new weatherstripping, caulking, or hardware replacement can address isolated issues. This is especially true if the items you checked are all in the "Operation Problems" category, where hardware fixes are relatively inexpensive.

Three to Five Items Checked

You are in the consideration zone. The window problems are starting to compound. At this stage, get a professional assessment. A reputable Utah window company will inspect your windows, measure energy performance with a thermal camera, and give you an honest recommendation. Many of the issues at this stage are interconnected: a failed seal leads to condensation, which leads to frame damage, which leads to air leaks.

Six or More Items Checked

You are in the replacement zone. Multiple overlapping failures mean that piecemeal repairs will cost more over time than replacing the windows. At this point, the question is not whether to replace, but how to prioritize which windows to do first and how to budget the project.

For a detailed breakdown of what replacement costs in Utah, including material options, labor, and financing, check our window replacement cost guide.

What to Do Next: Repair or Replace?

Not every window problem requires a full replacement. Some issues are genuinely repairable, and spending $50-200 on a repair is far better than a $500-1,000 replacement when the repair will last another 5-10 years.

Here is the general framework:

Repair Makes Sense When

• The issue is isolated to one or two windows
• Frames are structurally sound (no rot, no warping)
• The glass seal is intact (no fog between panes)
• The window is less than 15 years old
• The problem is operational (hardware, paint, dirty tracks)

Replacement Makes Sense When

• Multiple windows show problems simultaneously
• Frame damage is present (rot, warping, cracking)
• Seals have failed (fog between panes)
• Windows are single-pane
• Windows are 20+ years old
• You are experiencing comfort issues despite proper HVAC maintenance
• Energy bills are consistently rising

For a complete decision framework with cost comparisons, see our window repair vs replacement guide.

Why Utah Homes Are Especially Vulnerable

Utah's climate puts unique stress on windows that homeowners in milder regions simply do not face:

Temperature Extremes

Salt Lake City's record low is -22 degrees Fahrenheit and its record high is 107 degrees Fahrenheit. That 129-degree range causes enormous thermal expansion and contraction cycles that wear out seals, warp frames, and stress glass.

High Altitude UV Exposure

At 4,200-6,000+ feet of elevation, Wasatch Front and Utah County homes receive 15-25% more UV radiation than homes at sea level. This accelerates the degradation of window seals, coatings, weatherstripping, and frame materials.

Dry Air

Utah's average relative humidity of 30-40% (and even lower in winter) dries out wood frames, caulk, and rubber weatherstripping faster than in humid climates. What lasts 25 years in the Southeast may last only 18-20 years here.

Rapid Construction Periods

The 1990s and 2000s construction booms in Utah Valley, South Jordan, Riverton, Herriman, and Eagle Mountain produced thousands of homes quickly. In some cases, builder-grade windows were installed that prioritized cost over longevity. These windows are now reaching the end of their service life simultaneously.

The Energy Efficiency Upgrade Path

If you have confirmed that your windows need replacement, understanding the performance tiers available helps you make the right investment:

Good: Standard Double-Pane Low-E

• U-factor: 0.28-0.30
• Argon gas fill
• Blocks 70% of UV
• Meets current Utah energy code
• Cost: $300-500 per window installed

Better: Enhanced Double-Pane Low-E

• U-factor: 0.22-0.27
• Argon gas fill with warm-edge spacer
• Blocks 95% of UV
• Exceeds Utah energy code
• Cost: $450-700 per window installed

Best: Triple-Pane Low-E

• U-factor: 0.15-0.20
• Krypton or double argon gas fill
• Blocks 99% of UV
• Far exceeds code, approaching passive house standards
• Cost: $700-1,200 per window installed

For Utah's climate zone (Zone 5), we generally recommend the "Better" tier for most homes. The energy savings over "Good" justify the modest price premium, and you get significantly better comfort and noise reduction. Triple-pane is worth considering for high-elevation homes, north-facing windows, or homeowners who prioritize maximum comfort and noise reduction.

Taking Action

Your windows are talking to you. Drafts, fog, noise, sticking, rot, rising bills, and fading floors are not random problems. They are symptoms of windows that have reached the end of their effective service life.

Here is a practical next-step plan:

1. Complete the diagnostic checklist above, room by room.
2. Count your warning signs. If you hit three or more, move to step 3.
3. Get a professional evaluation. A reputable local installer will assess your windows with thermal imaging and give you a clear recommendation.
4. Understand your options. Read our repair vs replacement guide and cost guide before committing.
5. Consider energy-efficient upgrades. Learn which energy-efficient windows perform best in Utah so you make the most of your investment.

Your home should be comfortable, quiet, and efficient. If your windows are not delivering on those basics, they are overdue for attention.